Of “hotles”, rites of passage and “haute cuisine”…

Rather busy week but with a patient in the house, have been thinking up invalid diets. Soups are definitely life’s saviours where invalids or weight watchers are concerned. 

When we were growing up, the only ‘soup’ we were familiar with was the tomato soup at a “hotel” . Restaurant was a fancy word which came into our vocabularies later in life. Till then any eatery – be it the humble idli-dosa joint called Maaruthi Vilas round the corner or the fancier Annapurna on Nampally Station Road where we had the tomato soup, they were all hotels – with a long “ho” and a very short “tel” – “ho-tle”- pronounced the Indian way! 

Back to our tomato soup – this was a bright orange-red concoction – of a hue designed to make any tomato blush 😉 filled with happily deep-fried croutons, this was our idea of “haute cuisine” as was “Hotle” Annapurna our idea of high living! As we grew older and the rites of passage of “going out with friends” were passed, Chinese joints entered our domain and “sweet corn” soup and the even more exotic “tom yum” soup made us feel truly cosmopolitan! 

Much, much later and many years of travel later, I got to the point where i now believe that Punjab was the best thing that happened to Chinese cuisine!! I think we Indians are definitely a bit chauvinistic when it comes to food and even if are eating a “molecular gastronomic experience” (phew!!), secretly there is a little voice (strongly resembling your grandmother’s!) telling you this is a great dish – all it needs is a pinch of jeera, a hint of asafoetida, a smidgin of garam masala or sambar powder, a spoonful of chili and a dollop of ghee! 

Over decades of “mindful cooking”, I learnt  (much to the chagrin of the grandmother’s voice!) that one area where we really cannot improve on another cuisine is the very humble soup. The rule of thumb with soups is – the simpler the better. The fewer the ingredients, the clearer the vegetable sings!

Here’s one of my own – with truly one of the humblest of vegetables but one of the sublimest of soups – presenting the

CHOWCHOW SOUP

(chayote/ bangalore vankaaya/ bangalore kathrikaya) soup

  • Chowchow – 1 large – peeled and sliced
  • Shallots or onions – chopped – 2 tbsp
  • Butter – 1 tbsp
  • Cashewnuts – 6-7
  • Salt
  • White pepper powder – 1/2 tsp
  • Coriander  -chopped – 1 tbsp
  • Milk – 1/2 a cup

Saute the onions along with the butter in a saucepan ona  very gentle flame till translucent, Add the chowchow, coriander and the cashewnuts and a cup of water and bring to the boil. Cover and simme for about 15 minutes till vegetables are super tender. Cool and blend to a very smooth puree. If the puree is not smooth enough, strain through a sieve. Add the salt, pepper and enough water to make a medium thick soup – spoonable but not droppable. To serve, pour 2 tbsp hot milk into a bowl and top with the soup. C’est tout!! Das ist alles! Ash-tey! Avulodaan! Ante! or in my favourite Hyderabadi patois – itna eech miyan!

 

Out of the mouths of nutritionists!

 
Mash it, fry it, bake it, chip it, disguise it in a gravy, roast it, curry it – it still doesn’t bite you back – the ever loyal, ever yummy tattie – thus proving ye olde adage – a potato by any other name etc (wrongly attributed by Shakespeare to the rose!). I’ve even tried eating it raw – a long time ago – when I was a teen reading a book on the Irish potato famine and wanted to “live” the book (not recommended – the eating, not the reading!) And here’s my guest blogger for today – my aunt – Malathi Mohan, a nutritionist/writer/very vocal feminist, actually telling you spuds are GOOD for you!! So, all you dieters out there, enjoy this cheesy-potatoe-ey dish guiltlessly – the doctor recommends it!!
 
Over to Malathi M:
 
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Who has not heard of Mashed Potato, the most beloved tuber in all our favourite meals. Only those who get carried away by the negative reports on it, try to avoid it and then relish it with guilt. Sorry folks, in spite of being a Nutritionist, I’ve never deleted it from my family meals. Just keep it for occasional inclusion. We don’t have to eat it every day and for every meal.
 
So when our guests from UK, Anne and Ash ((Ashok at one time) were visiting us and I was praising your cookery blog, Anu, I asked Anne if she could tell us about her family’s favourite. What else, but the famous Mashed Potato in a slightly different Avathar! She takes care of her grandchildren often and she has no trouble planning her menu. Just as my son Shyam tells me not to ask what he wants for Sunday breakfast… Akki rotti… forever, Anne has to make Cheesy Mash without fail. I noticed that she has made the original preparation, more nutritious and more interesting. Now, let’s hear it from Anne.
 
CHEESY MASH
(Can be a meal dish or even a snack)
 
Potatoes peeled, cut into big cubes, boiled and mashed, ½ kg.; ( My suggestion, you can boil and peel before mashing)
 
Cheese grated, 50 gm – you can add more if you are a ‘cheesy’ person
 
Milk 50ml
 
Butter 50g
 
Salt 1 tsp
 
Any other herb or flavor of your choice …optional.
 
To the mashed potato, add the milk, salt and half of the cheese. Mix well.
 
Heat a saucepan, add butter and add the mashed potato. Keep mixing slowly
 
So that it browns and get crispy. Finally add the remaining cheese and serve hot.
 
Anne adds any left over vegetables to add colour and interest and to negotiate for including  vegetables for the reluctant!
 
The other day my granddaughter Prerna wanted Cheesy Mash with onion added. I grated a small onion and added it to the butter before adding the mash. She loved it! When I wrote to Anne, she said it was uncanny, as she read my e-mail while she was adding onion which she never does! Was that telepathy Anne?
 
Of course, our traditionalists might prefer Potato Podimas, but each one to his or her taste, isn’t it so?
 

Bachelor appetites and corporate consolations!

” One more plate coming up…”

A few minutes later… “and anooother… “

And so on it goes one lazy Sunday afternoon we’d spent with a bunch of friends playing rummy… At about four, I’d altruistically (i have the excuse of being very young!!) offered to make samosas for all of us – there were five of us – husband, me, my brother-in-law and a couple of bachelor friends of his. Since we were among the few married couples in the group, these card sessions were usually at our place. 

Growing up with two brothers with rather LARGE appetites, i was quite used to churning out the very large quantities of food they seemed to need to sustain them ( i remember one marathon poori making session where we made close to two hundred pooris for just three of four of them – one brother and couple of friends – the sight of a poori made me sick for weeks afterward!)

And so started the samosa session – kilograms of potatoes and peas, seemingly a granary of flour and many dozens of samosas later, i threw in the towel!! No more – if you’re still hungry, eat thayir saadam (curd rice or if we were in pre-Revolution France, the equivalent would have been – fill your tummy with bread!) – was the threat! While the rest looked suitably abashed (not one samosa left for me, btw and if i hadn’t been smart enough to take a sneak preview, i would have been the one eating thayir saadam – only!), the biggest eater of them all, Chandru – looks disappointed – “but I ate only forty”!!

With all of us becoming diet conscious in our later years, samosas appeared less and less frequently at teatime – the decreasing frequency  being attended by increasing guilt pangs! One of these occasions was when my daughter decided that she’d had about as much as she could stand of a corporate career – after spending four months with a consulting firm!!! – and decided to quit to pursue her love of running and fitness. Last day of work – and she wanted something really special for the rest of the poor sods (in her opinion!) who had to continue. Decided to rustle up “kajjikayis” (karanjis), the D-shaped stuffed sweets that we could die for and quickly start kneading dough. As I start mixing the stuffing, find that the copra (dry coconut) has gone “off” and I need to do something in a real hurry with half an hour to go. Whirling like a dervish, microwave potatoes and peas, make the masala, roll out the pooris, stuff and fry the samosas – and collapse after packing a couple of dozen samosas for her co-workers.

The rest of the day is spent basking in the complimentary sms-es that keep flowing in but I am convinced now that samosas in particular, need something like adrenalin flowing in to start the job! 

Here’ s what you do once the adrenalin flows in:

 SAMOSAS

  • Maida – plain flour – 1 cup (makes about 15)
  • 1 tbsp melted butter
  • Potatoes – 4 large – boil and peel
  • Green peas – 2 tbsp – boil or microwave on high for 3 minutes with a tsp of water.
  • Carrots – 2 – peel and microwave for 3 minutes
  • Onions – 1 large – sliced fine
  • Green chilies – minced – 2
  • Ginger – minced – 1/2 tsp
  • Red chili powder – 1/2 tsp
  • Jeera – cumin seed powder – 1/2 tsp
  • Chaat masala or kala namak (pink Himalayan salt) – 1 large pinch
  • Asafoetida powder – 1 large pinch
  • Salt
  • Turmeric – 1 large pinch
  • Juice of half a large lemon
  • Chopped coriander/mint – 1 heaped tbsp
  • Oil to deep fry

Mash the potatoes and carrots together. Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a pan and fry the onions, chili and ginger. Mix in the powders and salt. Switch off, add lemon juice and coriander / mint. Let cool.

For the covering

Mix the maida with 1/4 tsp salt. Pour in the melted ghee and mix till the mixture is breadcrumb-y. Add water a little at a time and knead to a medium soft dough. Divide into marble sized balls and roll out into thin, very thin pooris. Place a little filling – about 1 tsp in one quadrant of the circle and roll the poori in half and then half again – till it forms a sort of puffed up triangle. 

Deep fry on a low flame till crisp and golden and serve with tamarind sauce / mint chutney/ ketchup – or plain!

 

Unintentional cake ‘bombs’ and “selling skills”!

 
“Do come home. I’ve just got a new oven and have baked a cake for tea”, I invite my friend over with her little daughter – my daughter’s bestie – Vinaya. Had just gotten an extra-large oven – reasoning that if I was going to bake birthday cakes too, I might as well fit them in there – and that oven, over the next dozen or so years, churned out an enormous number of cakes and muffins, breads and burger buns, cookies and crumbles, potatoes and pies and in short, everything that could be baked!
 
I’m runnning ahead of the story, however…having just become the proud possessor of THE OVEN and a few cake pans along with it, i chose the cutest – a heart-shaped pan which gave promise of baking with love! The flour and sugar and eggs and butter were measured out under the eagerly watching eyes of two small (one very small) children. The butter and sugar were creamed to the right fluffiness, everything else folded in, vanilla added with due reverence and then the oven doors closed as the doorbell rang to let in my friend and her daughter. Thirty minutes later, as per the book, the perfect, golden brown cake was reverentially taken out, cooled in defiance of the eager faces (three of them now) waiting and ta-da- cut with ceremony to…..eyes popping out like saucers as a lava of uncooked batter oozed out!
 
Vinaya actually thought that it was what was supposed to happen and was suitably impressed! Arch looked very proud – after all, it’s not everyone’s mom who can make a flow-y cake, right?!
 
My husband says that it was my MBA degree which helped sell the idea of molten lava cake before it was invented and that if he had had anything like a raw cake disaster, he’d never have heard the end of it!!! Hmmm…i can’t help it if engineers can’t sell stuff, can I??
 
Many “correct” cakes came out of it after I’d learnt to figure out the oven but that first “flow-er” cake will never be forgotten!
 
Here’s one of my favourite cakes- chocolate and orange – a match truly made in heaven!
 
CHOCOLATE ORANGE CAKE
 
50 gm plain chocolate
170 gm butter
110 gm demerara sugar
2 eggs
200 gm flour sifted with 1.5 tsp baking powder
30 gm almond meal
100 ml cream
50 ml yogurt
Finely grated rind and juice of one orange
50 gm sugar
 
For icing:
 
100 gm chocolate melted with 30 ml cream and poured over the top
Candied orange peel or segments
Melt the chocolate in a bowl over hot water and allow it to cool. Cream butter and sugar together till light and fluffy. Add egg yolks one at a time, beating in well. Sift in flour. Add the almond meal. Mix in the cream and whipped egg whites. . Fold in the melted chocolate. Add the yogurt and mix gently. Add the grated zest of orange and mix. Immediately pour into a tin and bake in a preheated oven at 180 C for about an hour till a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Mix the sugar with the orange juice and spoon over the cake. Leave in the oven to cool.
 
Pour the icing over the top and decorate with candied orange peel or orange segments. 
 

She’s got eggs on her miiiiiind!….

 

My guest blogger for today – my younger daughter Kanchana!

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So in a recent blog post, my mother mentioned that BOTH her kids love eggs as much as she does. Uhh, not cool Amma.

Firstly, as Arch so emphatically stated in her ‘guest blog post’, my mother didn’t let either of us develop food preferences when we were growing up. Secondly, when either of us did – accidentally – manage to develop a preference either way, it apparently got ignored completely!

One such preference that I secretly, sneakily, stealthily manage to develop was my dislike for eggs. (Note to Amma: next time you blog about either Arch or me, please verify your data about what foods we like).

I’ve never been a big fan of eggs. Eggs in whichever form – whether scrambled, omeletted, boiled, buried in cheese, whatever. Having been a vegetarian athlete, I was never allowed to go without eggs, as protein sources are hard to come by. While throughout my years at school I found a way to twist, break, find a loophole in pretty much every role enforced by our teachers, I was the complete opposite when it came to training. So when my coach told me to eat X number of eggs a day, everyday, I shut up and did it.

Naturally, I kept trying out different ways to disguise the eggs I had to eat. One recipe that I recently stumbled upon is Egg Akoori. I first tasted this rather fantastic Parsi dish at Bombay’s famous Leopold’s Café and tried to recreate it at home. 

Here’s what you’ll need: (recipe makes 4 eggs)

AKOORI

1 pod garlic

1 green chili

½ large onion sliced

1 tomato chopped up

1 large pinch of : turmeric, jeera, dhaniya, chaat masala, chili powder

Heat butter in a pan. Add in ingredients in the order above. Cook them up, then add in the eggs and scramble up.

Garnish with coriander. I like eating this with hot rice.

Basically, scrambled eggs-Indian style!

(Picture courtesy: Internet)