Leh and Ladakh – days 5 and 6 – to Hunder we go.. May 2017

Having had an antihistamine last night, I wake up late, at almost 7. We get ready, I skip a bath to favour my cold, which is not too troublesome except for a raw nose. Change and set out by 830. Nap on the way, much against my will, because the beauty of these mountains is something I will never get over…  We stop at a couple of places to take photographs. At one place is […]


Fig and jaggery tarte tatin : Of a walk through a village and the shadow of war..

I think I could get used to living in a tent, this kind of rather cute, modcon laid on tents! We are reminded again and again of how tough life is here – hot water only from 6 to 8 in the morning..there is no electricity…yes, simply no power supply! So with diesel generators, wood fired heaters …life has to be managed, cooking, heating bathwater, homes, water for washing anything and everything…you do not want […]


Day 3 – Leh to Hunder

Our man Mohammed Ali has requested us politely but firmly, to be ready to leave by 7 in the morning for Hunder. This is the one where we go via Khardungla, the highest motorable road in the world! Sridhar is out of his wits with excitement, me with apprehension! Early starts are never a problem for the two of us, we are up, bathed and breakfasted, me carefully sticking to toast and tea and of […]


Ting-mo: Of bonhomous drivers and monasteries and the Dalai Lama…

Having slept some 14 hours yesterday and skipped dinner, I wake up raring to face the world of mountains! Breakfast is poori, of which I have promised myself not to partake, and end up having three! Chana, baked beans (boring!), toast with butter which has been melted into a puddle of yellow liquid on the side, and some fantastic apricot jam, which they hide carefully under the counter and bring out only when the cognoscenti, […]


Thukpa – of mountains, yaks, wilderness and Leh

Leh day 1 We wake up early …very early, but that is no sweat for a couple of in-their-fifties-we-shall-refrain-from-mentioning-exactly- where-in-the-fifties…purely out of security concerns…what if someone figures out our passwords kind of concern, you see….now this sentence has gotten a little lost, rather like the roads in Leh..so let’s try and get back to where we were…in our fifties..WHO (the caps are in case I get lost again and have to find my way back!), […]