Memories of a grandmother’s kitchen….

choorma laddoo
A guest post today – am excited because it’s a very unusual recipe and a lovely story from Bindu Borle – thank you, Bindu – I can almost see your grandmother’s kitchen and your grandmom too, doling out goodies!!
I do believe, that the most interesting, yet the most beautiful kitchen, was my Naani’s (grandmother’s) kitchen. It was amazing, how one kitchen was divided into two parts, the relatively ‘modern’ kitchen and the traditional Indian one, and the difference between the former and the latter were poles apart. Amma, as we used to call our grandmother, had a ‘modern’ kitchen, which was very interesting. When you entered the kitchen, there was a window with bars, and just below that, was an old calendar with a bhagwaan ki photo, and the ‘modern’ gas stove right below that, on a shiny black cement counter. On the left, there used to be a large, open window facing the inner courtyard, and right in front of that, was an old, British colonial style table fan, which added to the strangeness of the whole experience. To the far right, was a bluish-green old wooden cupboard, which, when opened, was like seeing the treasures of Shangri-La for us. The cupboard had all the good stuff, like the bottle of Nesquick, or a jar of jelly, or maybe some ketchup, and spices, and all the western, American stuff, that we craved for, but rarely got, back in the 70’s. Having eatables from abroad got us three sisters instant popularity among all our friends!
But that was just one part! The most interesting part came, when we entered the inner, traditional Indian kitchen. Connected by a door to the outer one. Footwear was a complete no-no, and our hands needed to be thoroughly cleaned with the horrid-smelling Lifebuoy soap at the outer sink, before we came in. The inner kitchen was like the Garbh Grih, or the sanctum sanctorum of a temple, and it was a mélange of weird, fascinating and interesting things, with a set of quite a few rules to follow. As we entered, we could see a big kitchen, with Amma sitting in it, towards the left of the door. She sat, cross-legged on the ground, towards the left of the kitchen, tending to the angeethi, which was a traditional North-Indian, wood burning brazier, and the wall beside her had a small window, that led the smoke out towards the aangan, the aromas of which enticed everyone in the family towards the kitchen. There was a washing area, with a tap, and some ash to clean the brass and copper utensils present over there, near the angeethi.
Slightly above the brazier was a large, wooden cupboard with all of amma’s valuable utensils. Move right, and we used to find the old, wooden jaali-wali cupboard, which we called a doli, with all sorts of bottles and jars with God-knows-what filled in it, and all the sweets and namkeen that was made in the house! Even the mithais, which were bought home by guests, were hidden there! This was one place which we always eyed as it was the most valuable in terms of interesting food, and we hung around in the kitchen, solely in the hope that we would get some delicacies from the doli.
In the extreme corner of the kitchen, all sorts of strange devices were kept, which were used to grind and powder many things. They looked both horrible and extremely funny at the same time! Amma’s kitchen and her culinary skills bloomed at the times of festivals. This was the time when everyone got together to share the joys, laughter, festivities, and the good food! This delicacy – choorma laddoo was made especially during the festival of Makar Sankranti.
She would fry the thick puris in pure ghee and once they became cold, she would rub them with her hand on the backside of an old iron sieve. The holes had small edges, which helped it to grind evenly. She did not trust the electronic grinder for this work. Everything was done with extreme precision and devotion. All three of us would sit and watch her with this hope that she might call either one of us to come and taste the laddoos! Our hungry eyes and mouths didn’t mind waiting ever, as it was always worth it!
Those freshly made puris ground into fine powder, boora, raisins, almonds and pistachios and ghee all bound together by Amma’s love and affection, made the delectable Choorma Laddoos.
It is one dish that we have a lot of fond memories of my Amma’s kitchen and I am re-living those memories through this recipe. Though my sisters and aunts still follow the original recipe, this recipe has been modified to suit my time constraints and convenience.
CHOORMA LADDOOS
(Makes about 20 laddoos)
•2 cups atta (whole-wheat flour)
•11/4 cups roughly powdered sugar or boora
•3 tbsp + 1/2 cup ghee
•1/4 cup finely chopped nuts/raisins
•1/2 tsp Elaichi (cardamom) powder
•Desiccated coconut (optional)
Ghee for searing
•Saffron strands for garnishing
Method
In a large bowl, combine the atta (whole-wheat flour) and 1/2 cup of the melted ghee and water and mix well. Knead it into smooth soft dough. Take a medium sized ball from the dough, flatten and dust with some flour.
Now with a rolling pin, roll the ball into a disk of about 10 cm in diameter and spread some ghee on the dough circle. Fold it in a half and spread some ghee on this half folded dough. Fold sideways to get a triangular shape or if you prefer, you can just make them circular.
Preheat the tava to make the parathas. Once the parathas are thoroughly cooked, keep them aside to cool completely. Once cool, crush them in a food processor to get a coarse powder resembling breadcrumbs. Add the elaichi powder, powdered sugar, chopped nuts, raisins and desiccated coconut to the mixture and combine well. Our choorma is now ready.
Once the laddoos are made, garnish them with the saffron strands before serving. You can add more ghee to bind the choorma and shape them to make laddoos.
P.S: Though ideally, these laddoos are served at room temperature, some people prefer to have them warm, especially during winters.

Of lunchtime travails of older brothers and crow shit!

cashewnut brittle

Once upon a time (I ALWAYS wanted to begin a story like this!), there was a little girl with two slightly older brothers. She had just started school and had not quite settled into being away from home. Those were the days when live-in cooks were the norm for working couples (working couples were not the norm, though!) and this family had one – a wonderful guy called Narayana.

Narayana was a boon companion, very willing to play endlessly with us – the only thing he couldn’t do was cook! My parents, being the unfussy kind, didn’t care too much – so long as something was put on the plates! N used to make breakfast, send us all off to office/schools etc. and then get down to the job of making lunch. Lunch made, dabbas would be packed and brought to our schools. My school being about a kilometre away from the boys’, not to mention that I hadn’t yet learnt to eat on my own, I’d be picked up on Narayana’s bicycle, taken to their school and fed lunch along with them. Which was fine, except that I was used to a two-hour lunch and schools, in their wisdom, decreed that forty five minutes was quite adequate for children to eat, wash up and then play for a while!

My brothers had discovered the joys of eating quickly and running off to play with their friends – which was also fine except for the little fact that I hated being left alone and would cry – loudly and lustily – till Anand, my eldest brother, came running back to shush me so he wouldn’t be embarrassed in front of his friends! “Anu, please, Anu thinu (eat) Anu! Stop crying, please…” Poor chap, at the age of five and a half, having to deal with a three-year old brat couldn’t have been fun! Arvind was wiser and would run off to the farthest corner of the school grounds, where he could pretend he hadn’t heard me!

I also had to be dropped off at my school for the post-lunch session! All in all, it added up a very stressful lunch hour for everyone else except me! One of those days, it took me so long to eat lunch that my school had shut its gates (18-foot high they were – from my point of view!) by the time Narayana wheeled me back and he had to take me home…

On the way home, I must have been drowsy because I fell off the bike, landed on my feet though and suddenly found myself running alongside the bike. Between a pair of chubby three-year old legs (very chubby despite the hours i used to take to eat!) and a pair of wheels, the wheels won, of course  and I was left behind! Luckily, those were the days when the traffic in Hyderabad could be counted on one’s fingers and toes almost and no other vehicle came past! Luckily – otherwise there’d be no one writing this blog!!

Some kind passerby waved down our distracted cook, pointing out that there was a little lump of lard trying to catch his attention by yelling after him! In the middle of all this, as I was running after the cycle, I had an unexpected gift – from an interested crow flying overhead, so excited by the scene unfolding underneath that it decided to… let go!

By the time Narayana turned around, came back to pick up a crowshit-spattered, panting little kid and took her home, the kid had had just about enough of a messy world!

A nap soon restored balance to the universe though, not to mention the fuss that my mom made over me that evening!

Fuss and food – so closely related!

Here’s the food with which a fuss was made over me – almost worth the whole messy day! And NO ONE could make this better than my aunt – Ameenakkayya!

JEEDIPAPPU PAKAM/CASHEWNUT BRITTLE

  • Cashewnuts (whole)- 2 cups
  • Ghee  – 2 tbsp
  • Jaggery – grated – 1 cup
  • Sugar – 1/2 cup
  • Cardamom powder –  1 tsp

Heat the ghee in a saucepan and fry the cashewnuts on a low flame till a very pale golden yellow. Immediately take out of the pan and set aside in a plate to cool.

In another pan, make a syrup of the jaggery, sugar and cardamom with about half a cup of water, stirring frequently.

Add the cashewnuts and continue to let the syrup thicken till the softball stage (that is, a little of the syrup taken out and dropped into a bowl of water should form a ball at the bottom of the bowl. If it melts in the water, the syrup is not yet ready). Cook for a few minutes after the softball stage is reached – almost hardball. Switch off.

When the syrup has thickened enough, pour out the pakam into a greased steel plate and let it set. This brittle is difficult to cut so you just have to break off bits of it (and the larger the better!) as you eat!

Moral of the story – please teach your kids to eat by themselves before you put them in school!

Of hairdryers, gifts from kids and unflappable mothers!

custard

The year is 1969 and I was about five or six years old. My dad, who had been away in France for a couple of years was coming back and so there was much excitement at home. In the midst of my secret worry about would he remember Telugu (and if not, how on earth was I supposed to talk to him??!), there was also the excitement about what would he bring back for us as gifts!

Dad came back with some gifts for all of us and something very exciting for my mom – something whose existence we were completely unaware of till then – a large salon hair dryer! Like most women back then, my mom had long hair which she wore in a bun tied over a round ring which we called a vada (are the Nemali genes and vadas never be to be separated??! – sigh… )

Being a busy doc and a mother of three small children, Dad thought that it would be a useful gift – to dry her hair before she did it up and left for work at seven in the morning every day! This contraption consisting of a large upturned plastic ‘boiler’ kind of thing which fit over the head and then a long plastic tube leading into the boiler. The other end had something which produced hot air and well, basically it was a very complicated arrangement which involved at least two adult pairs of hands and several unwanted, un-needed but willingly proffered small hands to get it on and get it going! Mom must have used it a couple of times!

Around this time, on a parallel track, I was learning to put in my first stitches – large, straggly ones of which I was inordinately proud -under the expert guidance of “aunty” from downstairs.

Parallel tracks happen for a reason!

Wanting to make a ‘gift’ for my mother with my new-found skill, I decided to make a purse for her. Looked around for something to make it with – even a sow’s ear for a silk purse would have done! Sadly, neither sow’s ears nor any kind of material was available. But i am not my mother’s daughter for nothing – to give up any idea so easily would have brought shame on the family escutcheon!  And so, purely in the interest of making the family proud and making a gift for my mom, I proceeded to blithely cut up the plastic head thingummy of the hairdryer into two large semicircles, which I then joined together with four large, very large stitches and presented to my mom with a flourish when she came home in the evening from work!

What do you think happened? Something that only one in a million mothers would have done. Remember those were days when possessions were very few and consequently, very treasured. Instead of giving me a whack and lecturing me on taking other people’s things without permission, my mother accepted the gift gracefully and thanked me gravely.

I went away very pleased with myself and convinced that my mom loved the gift I’d made for her! Like I said, she is one in a million!

Takes me back to childhood memories of food – one of our favourites then and still is today – is my mom’s fruit salad – the best in the world… slathered over with thick, gooey custard and a lemon-y undertang which killed you with deliciousness!

I remember when I was in my teens and had a couple of kid cousins staying with, I made a proper English trifle for them as a treat – fruit, custard, jelly, cake and cream – all carefully layered. They watched the whole thing with great interest and helped with the assembling but when I served it out to them, wouldn’t eat it. Very puzzled, I asked their mom, my aunt, when she came to pick them up, whether they were too shy to eat it. She laughed and told me that while they loved, cake and jelly, custard, cream and everything else individually, they hated the whole thing together and were too polite to tell me so!! Chandri and Kartik, remember??

MOM’S FRUIT SALAD WITH CUSTARD

  • Fruit – apples, grapes, bananas, mangoes, de-seeded orange segments, sapota, pineapple, strawberry halves – all cut into small 1/2 cm chunks 4-5 cups
  • Sugar – 3-4 tbsp
  • Water – 2 tbsp
  • Cloves – 2
  • Lemon juice – freshly squeezed – 3 tbsp
  • Thick, very thick but not setting quality – it should be very gluggy – vanilla custard (yes, i make mine from custard powder and NOT from scratch!) – 1/2 litre -whisk till cool after you’ve cooked it. If you leave it un-whisked, it forms a yucky skin on top.
  • Jelly – optional – 2 cups – preferably strawberry or orange. Refrigerate till set.

Heat the water with cloves and sugar till the sugar is dissolved. Let it rest and cool completely.

Discard the cloves. Mix in the lemon juice. Pour this over the fruit and mix well.

Pour the custard over the fruit.

Refrigerate for at least two hours. Serve with chopped up jelly on top, if using.

And serve it to your kids as a treat for making you something – even if they’ve destroyed your most prized possession!

Of forbidden foods and ‘garden’ omelettes!

BANANA, WALNUT AND CINNAMON LOAF

BANANA, WALNUT AND CINNAMON LOAF BANANA, WALNUT AND CINNAMON LOAF

Orthodox families of some decades ago in India had lots of food prohibitions – can’t eat this, that and the other – it’s polluting! Meat, of course, was quite simply, out of the question in vegetarian households!

Outside food was a strict no-no to my paternal grandmother, who would even carry a brass ‘chembu’ full of coffee decoction with her when she traveled – a source of great curiosity to us when younger and much hilarity later in life – during adolescence – to us… kids can be pretty awful and awfully judgmental too!

My parents, on the contrary, belonged to the generation fired by the zeal of India’s independence movement and willing to throw all orthodoxy by the wayside and so they took quite happily to Hyderabadi cuisine (no non-veg food was ever cooked at home though), never imposed any restrictions on what we could eat – in friends’ homes mostly – no one could afford to eat ‘out’ those days!) with the result that my brother Arvind became a ‘strict’ non-vegetarian for the better part of his life while my older brother Anand and I never took to it and stayed ‘ghaas-phoos’ eaters – vegetarians!

In most homes though, there was a clash of generations over this whole issue – with the older people obviously horrified by what the younger people considered edible and even yummy – statements like “how can you eat that stuff? Why can’t you eat the ‘good’ stuff made at home instead??!” For the young, thirsting after the thrills of ragda-pattice by the wayside, Chicken-65 at a friend’s birthday treat and the giddy heights of Chinese cuisine (Japanese and Thai were a long way away from Indian shores – for all we knew, the Japanese probably didn’t even have food!), the ‘good’ stuff at home consisiting of rasam, dal, spinach and suchlike was anything but appealing! Five decades on, most of us are quite happy to tuck into the rasams, dals and spinach gravies though – but that was much in the future then

A friend of mine, coming from a strict vegetarian family of Jains, had tasted omelettes for the first time at another friend’s home – this friend’s family owned a poultry farm and we could eat as many omelettes as we wanted when we visited – phew, luxury! Aruna, the veggie friend, fell in love with eggs and wanted desperately to try them out at home. Living in a joint family with grandparents, sundry aunts and uncles, horror at home when she announced that she wanted to eat eggs! Normally the sweetest and most biddable of girls, Aruna put her foot down on this one. And reluctantly, the family gave in – with a caveat. The offending eggs must not come in sight of the kitchen!

And so, armed with a discarded saucepan (never to be brought into the kitchen again(!), a spoon and the rest of the paraphernalia, the children set up a ‘fireplace’ with twigs and sticks in a corner of the garden – lucky they had a LARGE garden – out of offending sight of the old people – and proceeded to make a glorious mess of omelettes!! For a household renowned for it’s tasty Jain fare, this was the most exciting meal the children had ever had!

Bread was the other item generally not allowed in the house – “double roti” as it was called in Hyderabad – was considered impure because it had to be bought and who knew what ‘polluting’ things went into it!!

India has changed – vive la change!

Here’s a celebratory abhishtu food – banana, walnut and cinnamon loaf:

BANANA, WALNUT AND CINNAMON LOAF

  • Whole wheat flour – atta – 1.5 cups
  • Maida – plain flour – 1.5 cups
  • Yeast – 1 packet
  • Milk powder –  1 tbsp
  • Sugar – 3 tsp
  • Bananas – overripe – 4 – mashed
  • Salt – 1 tsp
  • Butter or sunflower oil – 30 ml
  • Walnuts – 1/2 cup broken into bits
  • Cinnamon powder – 1 tsp

Prove the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water and sugar. Add the rest of the ingredients except the walnuts and mix the dough. Sprinkle the kitchen counter with a little flour and knead well, pulling and pushing and folding over – this part is a great workout and great fun, particularly if you have little kids – this is licence to create a mess and how often do we get that??! Cover with a damp cloth, leave in a warm place and let it rest for about an hour till it has doubled in size. Knock back, add the walnuts and shape into a loaf in a loaf tin (where else?!)

Let it rise again – about half and hour and then bake at 190 C for about an hour till it sounds hollow when you tap the tin at the bottom.

Eat the non-abhishtu bread with impunity right at the table, not hidden away in a corner of the garden!

Of one’s first drink and how to hide the traces!

date shake

masala rice coconut yogurt dip

dessert dessert

A few days ago, I blogged the story of one of the rites of passage of adolescence – smoking… today, following up with another rite of passage – drinking!

My mom was a teetotaller, still is because she thinks that all alcohol smells like kullipoyina regipallu (spoiled ber fruit/regipandu/ ezhandam pazham/Indian plum/jujube/Zizyphus mauretania) – thank goodness she’s never been to Scotland  or visited a brewery! Dad liked an occasional drink but never had much of a head for liquor – a quality inherited sadly by me… one drink would make him happy, the second one and  he’d be snoring in his chair!

Parties at home usually involved a large number of family and friends, with the cook making biryani in huge pots on a outside fire because the kitchen was never large enough… loads of cousins generally there so we loved these occasions.

Once, however – i must have been about 16 or so, there were only two of us cousins – Naresh and me. The adults were drinking and playing cards and doing generally very boring adult things so we decided to have dinner early. Biryani was better than the conversation at the adult table anyway! Post our dinner, we went back to the drawing room and then the older people all trooped off to dinner… leaving a half-finished bottle of Chivas on the side table.

The same thought crossed our minds – this looks interesting! AND they’re not likely to be back for at least an hour. Shall we? Yes, we shall! But the glasses were all in the dining room… what the heck, who needs glasses anyway?! And so, Naresh, younger to me by some three years (sorry for leading you astray, Naresh!) and I proceeded to pour capfuls of Chivas for each other – luckily Chivas’ bottles have long caps which can hold almost an ounce of liquor!) and knock them back. Loved the taste! Some four capfuls each later, we were giggling helplessly over the depleted contents of the bottle! Noises emananting from the corridor of older people coming back after dinner. Oops… they couldn’t fail to notice that the level in the bottle had shrunk appreciably. Quick thinking was called – after two large pegs each, poured down the hatch with no niceties like soda or ice, quick thinking was not so easily come by! But between the two of us, there were still enough wits left to quickly fill the bottle up to halfway level with… water!

And then we quietly sneaked off, wishing everyone a polite goodnight 🙂

We never heard anything about it so decided that adults must have thought they spilt water in the whisky by mistake… or whatever… why look a gift horse in the mouth??!

Thirty years on and my dad’s genes are too strongly embedded in me – one drink and I’m happy , two and I’m snoozing away…

The quick fix that we did with the whisky that day is sometimes all that you have time for… like these quick fixes for food below – sent to me very kindly by Divya, the daughter of my very dear friend from childhood, through college and life… Viraja.

Here are Divya’s quick fixes, not one but five – none of which involve any alcohol, btw!

1.KOBBARI PERUGU PACHADI / COCONUT AND YOGURT DIP:

In a little bit of oil add garlic and tamarind, urad dal, cumin seeds, red chilies, green chilies. Fry a bit and grind this along with a little fresh coconut. Mix this paste with yogurt and salt – Voila!

Optional – Just before serving add small cut pieces of onion and chopped coriander.

2. EMERGENCY MASALA RICE: 

If we have leftover rice but no veggies what i do is::

Fry onions, add jeera/cumin seeds, turmeric and kasooti methi.

Then put the rice in this onion fry. Mix it well, add jeera/cumin powder and little garam masala, red chili powder, salt and done!

3. EASY PEASY DESSERT:

Shallow fry or toast white bread in butter

Place in baking pan

Put one layer of custard milk( custard powder mixed in milk)

Then one layer of orange marmalade.

Another layer of custard milk.

You can do how ever many layers you want.

Bake for 15 mins done!

4. SUPER EASY INSTANT CAKE-Y DESSERT!

Dip regular glucose biscuits and/or choco chip biscuits or Marie biscuits in coffee milk.

Put them in layers refrigerate and eat. Heheheh!

And if you’re feeling really adventurous, pour chocolate sauce over before refrigerating!

5.DATE SHAKE

Soak seedless dates in warm water for sometime, if no time to soak, microwave dates in little water.

Grind it into a fine paste.

Then add little vanilla essence and milk, put in mixie again… enjoy.

Divya, I have no doubt that your easy recipes will save many student lives!!!